Always consult a professional to determine the type of flooring that is suitable for your home.

Check the floor for any type of debris, protruding nails, clumps of paint etc. Remove or nail down protruding nails. Scrape the floor to remove any clumps of paint or sheet rock mud. Vacuumed to remove any loose debris

Some cases you may have to perform a moisture test, this may be purchased from your flooring supplier. This may be required to assure that the new flooring is not exposed to an excessive amount of moisture, which can cause damage. This is normally required when your sub floor is constructed of concrete and below grade (ground) or if your home is located in an extremely moist geographic location.

Prepare the floor filling any cracks or holes in the sub floor, with a floor patch compound suggested for flooring. Only use concrete when recommended by the manufacturer or when required to fill a large holes that are to big to be filled with patching compound.

If you are installing over a concrete sub-floor you may have to install a separate moisture barrier (visqueen) or plastic, in most cases the moisture barrier comes attached to the foam under-layment. Layout your foam under-layment overlapping the moisture barrier if attached, if not but the joints tightly together and tape the seams using duct tape. leave the edges long you can trim them later once you have finished installing the planks.

Under cut the door jams. place a piece of the flooring next to the door jam and mark a line the thickness of the wood on the door jam. Generally the flooring should stop at the center of the door. Use a piece of the transition to mark where the transition will go, mark a line so you know where to end the flooring and start the transition.

Be sure to use the 1-2-3 method of staggering the joints. This means; the fist row starts with a full plank, the second row will start with 2/3rds of a plank and the 3rd row will start with 1/3rd of a plank. This will keep your joints staggered as needed. Continue to follow this rule though-out the installation. Generally interlocking flooring comes with planks that are of equal length, so once you have removed the portion per the 1-2-3 rule you can continue and the joints automatically be staggered. Start laying the flooring. It is best to start in a corner with a full plank.Cut away the tongue and place the cut side of the plank against the spacers. Install the next plank by place the tongue into the joint hold the plank at a 45 degree angle, then fold it downward into place. Once the first row is complete, cut away 2/3rds of the plank, be sure to cut the proper side, fold the plank into place starting the second row. Now this is where it gets a little tricky, fold in the next plank along the length of the plank, make sure it is as close as possible to the first plank. Once the plank is locked in use your tapping block to tap the joint together on the short end of the plank, be sure not to damage the end of the plank while tapping (only tap as hard as you have to to make the joint go together). Start the third row cutting away 2/3rds of the plank and follow the rules listed above through-out the rest of the installation.

Measure and cut the transitions as needed, dry fit the transition to make sure the fit is not to tight. Apply liquid nail as needed, put the strip in place and nail in to the wood only.